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Straight Simcoe IPA
Imperial IPA • All Grain • 19.50 L
This is my first try to brew IIPA. I am definitely not a hophead, and this batch is purely for an experimental purpose, though I will drink it. Now I am convinced that the hopheads are really idiots. They waste an insane amount of expensive hops to get a small amount of "hop juice". It reminds me of old American cars called "gas-eaters". The only thing I was relieved was that I could get rid of old hops (07's and 08's) and make a storeage room for newer hops in my refridgerator. I am going for a malty beer for my next batch.
December 1, 2010 pm 11:12pm
5.0/5.0 1 rating
Ingredients (All Grain, 19.50 L)
- 7.0 kg
American 2-row
American 2-row
Yields a slightly higher extract than Six Rox brewers Malt. Tends to give a smoother, less grainy flavored beer. Some brewers claim they can detect a significant difference in flavor. Lower protein and will yield a lower color than Six-Row Brewers Malt
- 0.23 kg
Crystal Malt 40°L
Crystal Malt 40°L
Sweet, mild caramel flavor and a golden color. Use in light lagers and light ales.
- 0.23 kg
Torrified Wheat
Torrified Wheat
Helps head retention and mouthfeel, used in some pale ales.
- 0.68 kg
Corn Sugar
Corn Sugar
Use in priming beer or in extract recipes where flaked maize would be used in a mash.
- 50 g
Simcoe® - 12.9 AA% whole; boiled 90 min
Simcoe®
Used for aromatic, and especially bittering properties.
- 100 g
Admiral - 13.1 AA% whole; boiled 60 min
Admiral
Admiral hops are known for their high acid content, delivering a bold yet smooth bitterness. They showcase notes of orange citrus and herbal undertones, making them an excellent choice for crafting more bitter Pale Ales and ESBs.
- 25 g
Simcoe® - 12.9 AA% whole; boiled 15 min
Simcoe®
Used for aromatic, and especially bittering properties.
- 25 g
Simcoe® - 12.9 AA% whole; boiled 1 min
Simcoe®
Used for aromatic, and especially bittering properties.
- 50 g
Simcoe® - 12.9 AA% whole; added dry to secondary fermenter
Simcoe®
Used for aromatic, and especially bittering properties.
- 1 tsp
Irish Moss - boiled for 15 min. (omitted from calculations)
Irish Moss
A dried red-brown marine algae. Fining agent to remove large proteins. Negatively charged polymer attracts positively charged protein-tannin complexes (extracted from grain husks and hops) during the boil. This action is aided by the clumping of proteins in the boiling process. Irish moss settles to the bottom of the brew kettle with spent hops and hot break material at the end of the boil.
-
Fermentis US-05 Safale US-05
Fermentis US-05 Safale US-05
The most famous ale yeast strain found across America, now available as a ready-to-pitch dry yeast. Produces well balanced beers with low diacetyl and a very clean, crisp end palate. Sedimentation: low to medium. Final gravity: medium. Pitching instructions: Re-hydrate the dry yeast into yeast cream in a stirred vessel prior to pitching. Sprinkle the dry yeast in 10 times its own weight of sterile water or wort at 27C± 3C(80F ±6F). Once the expected weight of dry yeast is reconstituted into cream by this method (this takes about 15 to 30 minutes), maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes. Then pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel. Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C(68F). Progressively sprinkle the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes and then mix the wort e.g. using aeration.
Notes
1 step mashing at a low temprature 65-67C for full 120 min. (Mash-out at 76C. ) Add 1 tsp of gypsum at mash-in. 50g of Simcoe was added to the first wort. I am willing to make a kind of hopback device by myself and usie it when bottling the beer, instead of dry hopping. It seems to me that a dry hopping makes the hop absorb too much beer, so, very inefficient. My only concern about the use of hopback is a possibility that my beer might be conterminated. (Probably not significant. ) Brewed on 11/29/10. The OG was 1.092.
Style (BJCP)
Category: 14 - India Pale Ale (IPA)
Subcategory: C - Imperial IPA
| Range for this Style | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Original Gravity: | 1.086 | 1.075 - 1.090 |  |
| Terminal Gravity: | 1.016 | 1.010 - 1.020 | |
| Color: | 9.5 SRM | 8 - 15 | |
| Alcohol: | 9.3% ABV | 7.5% - 10% | |
| Bitterness: | 290.4 IBU | 60 - 120 | |
Discussion
290 IBU???
2010-12-21 7:12pm
You call hopheads "idiots" and then you brew something with 290 IBU?? It seems to me that YOU are the one using an "insane amount of expensive hops". The style calls for 60 to 100 IBU...so you use 3 times that amount and then say only "idiots" like a lot of hops? That makes no sense whatsoever.
IBU
2010-12-21 11:26pm
The recipe is based on the one in a famous recipe book. It also results in over 200 IBU. (About 230 IBU, as far as I remember. )There is a commercial product of IIPA with over 180 IBU. (Cf. Brew Dog. )There is also an IIPA recipe in this site with over 300 IBU. (I do not remember it has been actually brewed. )In fact, I know some people who enjoy this style of beer with 250-350 IBU. Mine is NOT really excessive FOR THIS STYLE, though I agreee it is excessive in a standard thinking. The book says that the important thing for this syle is how to get a splendid smell and taste of hops by using a vast amount of hops, not IBU.
hopheads are idiots?
2010-12-22 11:02am
wow bear2bear, you are truly a newform of douche who's douchedom knows no bounds...i hope you get hit by a truck full of hops!!!
shouldn't say what I'm thinking
2010-12-22 11:28am
The point is not that you can find recipes that have more than 290 IBUs...that is irrelevant. The points are: 1) The style IS DEFINED as 60-100 IBU and it does not matter what other people do. Other peoples recipes do not define the style, but rather they are either within those guidelines or not. You are WAAAY outside the guidelines. 2) You call people "idiots" who use a lot of hops, and then turn around and use more than most of those so-called "idiots".
making my point
2010-12-22 11:34am
hence fourth, bear2bear must be the real IDIOT
Style
2010-12-22 8:15pm
It looks like some people may have been agitated by my comment. I do not think I need to follow up these comments, but I think I need to clarify how I understand a style of a beer. At first, the definition of a style is just a convenient way to classify beers, and it does not really work for a special kind of beer like IIPA. (For example, we cannot really classify the beer like Sati. ) The fact is that people commonly brew this style with over 100 IBU, and after getting more than 100 IBU, the alpha acid level does not matter much. The style is so defined since the hop varieties and quantities are far more important than their alpha acid levels, so that the IBU value gives just a sufficient line to be called as IIPA. A real definition of the style (by drinker's point, I suppose) is what this style aims for, and IIPA aims for intense flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel of hops. If you can achive it by less than 100 IBU, it is fine, and I am happy to be along with this line. Getting over 400 IBU to achieve it is also fine for this style, though I do not think it wise. Being Imperial calls for any amount of hops to achive its goal, no matter vast it is. My point is that the textbook use of such a vast amount of hops, such as mine, seems unnecessary for the aim of this syle under current "advanced" brewing methods, and achieving it "by powers" (or "Imperially") seems unwise. (It may be the case that hopheads enjoy this "unwiseness" itself, like a kind of sub-culture. )Also I think a beer is a "malt juice", not a "hop juice", so IIPA seems to be out of the main street, though I know it is a well-established and popular style.
I like it, mysteruously.
2011-12-30 8:08am
Bottled on 2/11/11. I am not a hop head, but I like this beer. The beer is pretty much what we expect for Imperial IPA. I think, with a use of fresh Simcoe hops, no one can go wrong. I still think that a use of hop back will save your money and increase the hop flavor, though.
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