Hey everyone,
I am brand new to all of this having just recieved by brewing equipment as a Christmas gift. I have already jumped in and started my first batch which is ann Imperial Stout that was just a beer kit recipe. I will be bottling next week. My real question is where do I go from here. I would love to hear some advice about what might be a good brew to try next. I would like to try a lighter beer next. Ideally, I want to try my hand at Munich Helles or a Pilsner Urquell. What would be your advice for my next brew (keeping in mind that I am very new and not familiar with many brewing techniques just yet. Thanks
JS
New to the game
Moderator: slothrob
Welcome
Welcome to the clan! Nothing like pouring a friend a beer and him asking "You made this?"
As far as what to brew? Hmmm...I'd suggest a Pale Ale or an India Pale Ale--in my opinion you just can't go wrong with one of these. The Munich Helles and Pilsner are lager beers. In order to pull these off successfully, it will require some gear and techniques that you may not have just yet.
Spend time focusing on your procedures, especially your sanitation. It's a tearful event when you lose a batch because you were sloppy with sanitation. Get the hang of the basics and then move on up. Spend time looking through various books and ask your questions here. John Palmer has a good online book here www.howtobrew.com Incidentally, what kind of brewing kit did you get?
Oh and the other starting tip I'd give you is to not use straight tap water. It contains chlorine (some places use chloramine) to keep nasties down in the pipes. However, chlorine reacts in the boil and creates medicinal flavors. Yuk..So unless you want to make a Vicks 44 brew you might want to use bottled water or charcoal filtered water.
And where do you go from here? Let your tastebuds be your guide, Grasshopper
v/r
Bill
As far as what to brew? Hmmm...I'd suggest a Pale Ale or an India Pale Ale--in my opinion you just can't go wrong with one of these. The Munich Helles and Pilsner are lager beers. In order to pull these off successfully, it will require some gear and techniques that you may not have just yet.
Spend time focusing on your procedures, especially your sanitation. It's a tearful event when you lose a batch because you were sloppy with sanitation. Get the hang of the basics and then move on up. Spend time looking through various books and ask your questions here. John Palmer has a good online book here www.howtobrew.com Incidentally, what kind of brewing kit did you get?
Oh and the other starting tip I'd give you is to not use straight tap water. It contains chlorine (some places use chloramine) to keep nasties down in the pipes. However, chlorine reacts in the boil and creates medicinal flavors. Yuk..So unless you want to make a Vicks 44 brew you might want to use bottled water or charcoal filtered water.
And where do you go from here? Let your tastebuds be your guide, Grasshopper
v/r
Bill
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- Pale Ale
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2000 5:09 am
- Location: Wollongong Australia
- Contact:
Where are you from
Hi Tiger
Sounds like an old story, Here are you from as the start of your name is AU. Are you from Australia.
Cheers
Ray
Sounds like an old story, Here are you from as the start of your name is AU. Are you from Australia.
Cheers
Ray
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2003 4:53 pm
Thanks
Thanks for the advice. By the way I am from Birmingham, AL. The AU in my name is for Auburn Tigers, that's where I went to school.
JS
JS
Go Slow
Hi JS
As Billybock said, GO SLOW, There is no need to rush. Yes water is very important. My home is provided with city water, so I went and cut a 2 1/2 inch hole in my basement floor and drove a sandpoint down about 20 ft. The basement floor is about 10 ft.below outside ground surface so I,m really down 30 ft. with the sandpoint. I attached a well pump and pressure tank and walla I have clean mineral water piped to my brew sink. The cost for material was about $325.00 but I don't worry about nasties from city water.
Tom
As Billybock said, GO SLOW, There is no need to rush. Yes water is very important. My home is provided with city water, so I went and cut a 2 1/2 inch hole in my basement floor and drove a sandpoint down about 20 ft. The basement floor is about 10 ft.below outside ground surface so I,m really down 30 ft. with the sandpoint. I attached a well pump and pressure tank and walla I have clean mineral water piped to my brew sink. The cost for material was about $325.00 but I don't worry about nasties from city water.
Tom
read read read
Welcome to the hole in which you shall pour money.
Read everything beer related, I second www.howtobrew.com it is excellent.
Work on technique first, boil as much of the wort as you can, you can taste the difference. If you have city water but can't afford bottled or filter system, pour water 2 days before and let sit covered.
I would also say a pale ale, heed temperature warnings for fermenting. You want to ferment cool not warm like everyone new seems to think.
Read everything beer related, I second www.howtobrew.com it is excellent.
Work on technique first, boil as much of the wort as you can, you can taste the difference. If you have city water but can't afford bottled or filter system, pour water 2 days before and let sit covered.
I would also say a pale ale, heed temperature warnings for fermenting. You want to ferment cool not warm like everyone new seems to think.
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- Double IPA
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2001 1:56 am
Here is another couple of suggestions.
JS,
All of the information that the guys gave you is correct. Two other things that will help you along faster are detailed notes and replication.
A detailed log book with each brewing recipe and session will be very helpful as a reference, make good notes and review them often.
The second thing is to brew, as Bill stated, a middle of the road beer (ale). Make a style that you like (buy a sample if you don't have a good taste profile in your mind) than try to brew it repeatedly until it comes out the same every time (this is very important should you go to all grain brewing). You should be able to detect any differences and change your brew 'at will'. When you can do this, you will begin to understand what the brewing texts are trying to tell you. I would start with a lighter less hopped ale, the Stouts and IPA's tend to mask imperfections. You are trying to train your pallet and discover new things not hide them. Follow all the advise given here and you will make good beer!
I am a semi-pro brewer and I follow all the basics and I read some part of a brewing text every day. Keep reading........
Good brewing,
Tom F.
All of the information that the guys gave you is correct. Two other things that will help you along faster are detailed notes and replication.
A detailed log book with each brewing recipe and session will be very helpful as a reference, make good notes and review them often.
The second thing is to brew, as Bill stated, a middle of the road beer (ale). Make a style that you like (buy a sample if you don't have a good taste profile in your mind) than try to brew it repeatedly until it comes out the same every time (this is very important should you go to all grain brewing). You should be able to detect any differences and change your brew 'at will'. When you can do this, you will begin to understand what the brewing texts are trying to tell you. I would start with a lighter less hopped ale, the Stouts and IPA's tend to mask imperfections. You are trying to train your pallet and discover new things not hide them. Follow all the advise given here and you will make good beer!
I am a semi-pro brewer and I follow all the basics and I read some part of a brewing text every day. Keep reading........
Good brewing,
Tom F.