BeerTools Discussion Forum

Yep, pouring into the carboy should be sufficient. Since you're reusing a yeast cake, they really don't need a charge of oxygen as they already have their population. You'll find that they get to work right away--no lag phase for growth here! Watch out for an explosive ferment.

v/r
Bill

People that do full-volume boils start with more because evaporation will cause the final volume to be less. Some employ partial-boils, but here are a few reasons to do full-boils: better hop extraction, lighter-colored wort, and entire volume of wort is sterilized by the boil. Each system has a dif...

To retain some of the delicate honey aromatics, put it in the last 2 or 3 minutes of the boil.

OG means 'Original Gravity' and is the specific gravity measurement of your wort before you add yeast. FG means 'Final Gravity' and is the specific gravity measurement of your finished beer after the yeast has completed their job. Both measurements are typically taken with a hydrometer which measure...

Sweet...it's good to hear about positive Ebay experiences. Let us know how the mill works for you. Can you post a pic of it?

If you're using a pail for a fermenter, sometimes the lids don't get a tight seal and CO2 escapes through there instead of the airlock. It sounds like you have the onset of fermentation with the thin brown coat on the surface you mentioned. Don't worry.

Try some of the on-line homebrew stores like:

www.morebeer.com
www.northernbrewer.com
www.williamsbrewing.com

to list just a few. I've always had excellent results with these 3.

v/r
Bill

Sometimes bottle conditioning on a stronger beer takes a little longer than 2 weeks. Try leaving them out of the fridge for at least a good month to give it time to fully carbonate. When I bottled, I never seemed to get consistent results unless I just let it age for a month. What was your procedure...

If you're not going to be away long, I'd say leave it in the primary--2 or 3 weeks isn't bad. Transferring to secondary too early will run you the risk of a stuck ferment.

Not sure I understand correctly--maybe I just don't have my coffee yet. I interpret this: you're doing 2 batches of the same beer...mash tun is big enough to handle all the grain for both batches at the same time, but your boil pot can only handle 1 batch...you plan to have one mash instead of two.....

I'm not sure what it'd do to the copper. You could take a scrap piece of copper and put it in the pickling solution to see what happens. I suspect your sleeves and brass nuts are at the end of the pipe? I'd try and just suspend the device so only the brass and very little copper is submerged in the ...

It means that the chalk won't dissolve in plain water without some help from an acid. So you'll want to add it in your mash tun since that's an acidic environment. It doesn't matter whether you add it with dry grain first before striking or afterwards--in either case just make sure it's mixed in. As...

I'm not sure how long it'll take for the plastic taste you mention to go away or even what caused it. Maybe it's due to new PVC--although I've never heard of this. You might try installing the filter and see if it removes it. If it's not objectionable then consider brewing with it. Or just wait it o...

Hi there...welcome to the forum! As luck would have it, I just moved from Fort Worth and still have the 2004 water report. You want to pay attention to the numbers on page 5, in the table called 'Additional Parameters'. As a brewer you're interested in the following: Calcium, Chloride, Magnesium, So...

The buckets are notorious for leaking at the lid-bucket interface.