BeerTools Discussion Forum

Vipe wrote:Mead takes a looooooooooong time to fully ferment.

I do believe my wife left her last mead in fermentors for about a year...

WHO'S GOT THAT KIND OF PATIENCE?!

Welcome to BeerTools, Dennis!

Found your website years ago when I was getting ready to build a fermentation chiller. Never did build it, (although I bought everything but the polystyrene), but I DID keep the link to your site!

Cheers,
Charlie

Everything you described sounds very normal. High FG from DME. No worries, all is well. Chilling, i.e. refridgeration, causes proteins to clump together and fall to the bottom of the bottle after a short time (once the proverbial "chill haze" has passed where said proteins collect in suspe...

Give up and start kegging.

Kisses,
Charlie

You know, it's really sad, but those pilsners are done. Please place them gingerly in bubble-wrap and send them to me in a refridgerated truck.

You can rest assured I will dispose of them properly.

Regretfully, but ever-honestly yours,
Charlie

This guy did a great job with his beer fridge and quick disconnects for dispensing!

http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/BeerFridge.html

Cheers,
Charlie

HairNutz wrote:In order to force carbonate, do I just connect the keg to C02 and leave it sit for a while? How long? How much pressure?

Try these links:
http://www.homebrew.com/articles/article12018101.shtml
http://byo.com/departments/620.html

Cheers!
Charlie

All of the beers I ever made that didn't "finish out" were made with dry malt extract. I know not everyone has experienced this with their DME, but it wasn't until I switched to all-grain that my FG finally hit their marks. Even with lots of yeast nutrients in the extract/partial-mash batc...

Is it possible to totally eliminate sediment in the bottle? The sediment you are referring to is mostly from bottle conditioning your beer - that is, the last stage of fermentation that adds carbonation to your finished beer. The only way to get rid of that is to force-carbonate your beer in a keg,...

jeff wrote:If anything, I personally prefer a higher gravity than expected than one that is too low.

Yeah, but that's just because you're a lush.

Charlie

LodgePole Brewer wrote: What is the recommended addition of grains per lb to make up for the loss due to a batch sparge?

I am sure that there is a scientific and proper response to this, BUT what I have been taught and doing successfully is DOUBLING the base malt.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Charlie

Long story short, due to shipping problems from online store, I started my yeast starter last thurs (9-9) and brewed and pitched today (9-14). Is the starter still good? :?: How old was the yeast? Had it been handled well up to the point you made your starter (i.e. temperature controlled)? Did the ...

I'm thinking of using either Deionized or distilled water, maybe half and half with my regular tap water. . I have to say that after farting around with my tap water, additives, distilled water, etc... I now use my local supermarket's "Drinking Water" for brewing. It's cheap and easy and ...

Final, perhaps unnecessary thought; check your hydrometer... I once tossed one that was way off.

It should read 1.000 in water at 59 degrees.

Cheers,
Charlie

Anyone have or know anyone who uses the Sabco Brew Magic system? I was wondering if it's really worth the $4000 they're asking for it. Never used one, but have talked with brewers who do and THEY ARE FANATICALLY IN LOVE WITH IT. Having said that, I talked a welder friend of mine into helping me bui...