Anyone Using a Conical Fermenter

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Anyone Using a Conical Fermenter

Postby Bugsy » Fri Dec 13, 2002 1:58 pm

I've been looking at these concical fermenters and was curious if anyone here is using one. I'm trying to figure out if they're worth the cash. I've seen plastic ones stainless steel ones (which look very cool but are pricey) and something called the V Vessel. Thanks in advance for any comments.
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I've Been Looking Too

Postby dartedplus » Fri Dec 13, 2002 3:31 pm

I've been looking too and would love to get one. I found a site, www.zymico.com , that has hte stuff you need to accessorize one and you can get a ss one from www.toledometalspinning.com, item # on the 12.5 gallon is TMS 16914 ($87) and the lid is TMSL 1616 ($44). You will then need to buy the bottom dump from somewhere (zymico...$50- 100) and either buy or fabricate the stand and drill a hole in the lid for a airlock. All in all, you can get away with stainless steel for about $200 for a 12.5 gallon, which is WAY cheaper than at 3B and is even cheaper than the plastic ones. You can get the racking arm from zymico for $99 (i think)
They look great and are probably the way to go. One thing some people mention is being able to control temp during fermentation. I am lucky in that my basement stays cool in the summer (65-70) so I dont need temp control. If you live somewhere where you wont be able to control the temp, then you may have trouble with one.
Thats my 2 cents worth. Happy hunting, maybe Santa will bring you one!!!
Ed
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I think this could work..

Postby Brewer2001 » Sat Dec 14, 2002 1:54 pm

Bugsy,

Please send me some info on the V Vessel.

Ed,

I checked out both sites. It looks as if Zymico is incorporating some pro design features into his stuff. Here is somethings to think about.

Having worked with pro grade Unitanks a racking arm is nice but not required. Just use an in-line 'site glass' or long enough plastic hose and start or stop the flow if you get trub. The one defference in using a Unitank (with a 60 degree angle cone) is that you are able to 'blow the cone' prior to transfer, so you have less trub/yeast in the tank at transfer.

I would stick to the stainless fittings (SS will not leach metal ions into your beer/ale).

When I looked at the Toledo site I saw some interesting parts. I would go with the dome lid (it looks more like a Unitank and condensation will run off rather than collect on top). Here is the cool part($$$). They make the cones and they make cylinders. If you wanted a tank they could put the two together. If they were welded you would need a CIP fitting and a "hatch". But if the halves could be flanged to clamp together this would be the best of both worlds. The fitting at the top would no longer be for cleaning but would be used to vent CO2 and add CO2 top pressure on transfer (a filter could also be mounted to reduce contamination).

The cooling. Ether way (cone and cover or 'supercone') they could weld a small hollow 'tank' or jacket around the standing part of the cone with fittings for water or glycol (food grade)to be run in, pumped in or through.

The way I see it, if the cost is not prohibitive why not get something that will really be functional? I will do some checking.

Just some thoughts.

Good brewing.

Tom F.
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Jacket question

Postby Freon12 » Sat Dec 14, 2002 2:14 pm

Does the hollow jacket around the standing part of the cone need to have a path for liquid to follow or will it work just hollow?

Steve
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i would think...

Postby dartedplus » Sat Dec 14, 2002 3:58 pm

i would think that if you were pumping cool liquid through it, you would put it in at the bottom and take it out at the top. He did come up with a really good idea for a jacket. Of course you would then need the glycol and the pump and whatever else you might need to have to make it work. I am personally on a shoestring budget right now, but this is just more fuel for thought.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm......

dreaming
Ed
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What I have seen.

Postby Brewer2001 » Sat Dec 14, 2002 8:35 pm

Steve,

What I proposed is a 'cheap and dirty' method. The real (most efficient) way would be a dimple jacket that would maximize the cooling area across the surface of the tank. This would also create a turbulant flow with in the jacket. The pro Unitanks have 2 or 3 jackets (depending on tank size) one on the cone and one or two on the standing part of the tank body. The one on the cone also helps to keep the yeast viable.

Would the coolant enter through the bottom or the top? I think the top entry would help even out the temperature in the tank and set up the convection currents that help to keep the yeast in suspension. I will go back through my notes.
During my apprenticeship I remember cool the tanks to the required level (ex. 70 F) during active fermentation and then lower (crash) the temperature to about 50 F to drop the yeast.

This could get as exotic as anyone could imagine. Pump system with thermo control switches,pump speed or valve control, etc.,etc.

If this project was to be undertaken I think the jacket should be purchased with the cone section.

I will let you know.

Tom
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WOW

Postby Bugsy » Sun Dec 15, 2002 1:14 pm

I gotta tell you guys, you have taken the ball and run with it. I'm gonna have to get a piece of paper and do some sketching to try to catch up.
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Info on the V Vessel

Postby Bugsy » Sun Dec 15, 2002 1:18 pm

This is the website for the V Vessel I looked at one at my local brew supply store. I have pretty muck ruled it out though. It looks like it would be hard to clean. http://www.vvessel.com/
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the cheap way

Postby canman » Wed Jan 01, 2003 7:40 am

I've been using an upside down glass carboy for years. I have a two hole bung, one hole with plastic stop cock (tap) the other hole has a racking tube with an airlock. When turned upside down the racking tube is now at the top of carboy in the airspace. come racking time I open the stop cock full to purge most of the trub and then slowly allow the finished product out right into the corny keg. How to keep it upside down you ask?? I made a simple wooden rack to hold it. Works great!!!
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