Anyone using cartidge filters?

[mattg]

I had a bad experience with the vintage pad filter system and pitched in the trash after it converted (read stripped) 15 gallons of IPA into Bud Light. Now, two or three years later I find myself needing a quicker way to clarify than gravity. Eric of Mesa Maltworks said some brewers use "under sink" filters. I have a couple housings laying around I took out after hooking up to city water. Does anyone have any experience with using this type of filter for beer? I'm looking to take that final haze out after several days of settling. Most of my beer is mid-range gravity. I still have a supply of spun rayon and poly catridges rated at 5 microns.

[stumpwater]

Hey, you reminded me about a filter system for corny kegs I read about in a book a few months ago. It is hooked up between two kegs and then counter-flow feeds the beer through it. I know that it is manufactured in Hamilton, Ontario but I don't know the name of it. I will go to the library and see if I can find that book tonight. Let you know tomorrow what I find/don't find.

[Freon12]

I use 5 micron (which is nominal and really 8-10){thanks Eric} and it works well for me. I still do all the other things (Irish moss, whirlpool and kettle settling) and then filter in the way that Stump describes. Two corni kegs with ball lock fitting to the filter. I can be more specific if anyone wants to build one, but you get the idea, I'm for it.

S.

[mattg]

Alright, what's whirlpool and kettle settling? This is what I do. I brew all grain and use irish moss and a hard boil then use an immersion chiller in the kettle to cool it quick. I then allow 7 days in the primary. Then I add polyclar as the beer is racked into the secondary then put it into the frige, give it a few days and add jello. Then I wait 10-14 days. The whole process takes about three weeks and the beer appears pretty bright at this point. After force carbonating in the bottle I still often find fluffy sediment in the bottom of bottles that have sat in the frige the longest (>three weeks). It's this sediment I'm after with filtering. Of course, it would also be nice to cut the general clarification time down.

[Freon12]

After the boil, I stir the wort really fast and let it sit for 15 min. this allows the fluffy stuff you don't want in your beer to settle in the middle so you don't transfer this to the fermenter. That's why I can forgo the polyclar and still get bright beer and no "fluffy" stuff with in the same time frame or better. Assuming the lauter is clear brfore the boil.

S.

[stumpwater]

Sorry for the lapse but some rude individual has signed out the book with the information we need. Get back to you soon. If it helps, I believe that the info is in one of the books by Dave Miller.